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Midwest Meanderings



Almost a century before it would become famous as the hometown of Larry Bird, French Lick, Indiana was an internationally acclaimed resort destination, with travelers coming from all over the world to enjoy the comforts and healing spring waters of the French Lick Resort and Casino (FrenchLick.com, 888-MY-HIDEAWAY). Rockefellers have stayed here, as have Vanderbilts. Franklin D. Roosevelt enjoyed French Lick, as did Louis Armstrong and Bing Crosby.
    Thanks to a jaw-dropping $382 million renovation—including a meticulous restoration of the resort’s Donald Ross Course in conjunction with The Donald Ross Society—French Lick’s glory days have returned. The Ross Course (which hosted the 1924 PGA Championship) may now be the most authentic example of the great designer’s work: 35 original bunkers have been restored—complete with the Ross-styled deep faces and flat bottom surfaces—and the greens have been expanded to their original shapes. Design buffs can play the course at its original length from the Ross Tees, while those wanting an even stiffer challenge can head back to the Medal Tees, which stretch the course to more than 7,000 yards.
    A new chapter to French Lick’s golf history is currently being written, with a Pete Dye design set to open in 2009, which will offer spectacular views of southern Indiana’s gently rolling hills. 
    Guests at French Lick can choose from one of two historic hotels—French Lick Springs or West Baden Springs. In addition to golf, you can enjoy Vegas-style gaming in the 84,000-square-foot casino, fishing, boating, horseback riding, bowling or you can relax at the spa, where you can still enjoy the healing waters of the Pluto Mineral Spring that first drew visitors to the resort. You’ll find more than a dozen different dining options at French Lick, including the resort’s signature 1875 Steakhouse.
    In the northern part of the state, Swan Lake Golf Resort (SLResort.com, 574-935-5680) is the perfect destination for the golfer who is serious about his game. Swan Lake is home to one of the country’s most acclaimed—and longest-running—golf schools. The United States Golf Academy has been introducing beginners to the game—as well as honing the games of professionals—since 1971. And although the school has been in operation for 37 years, the facilities and teaching methods are state-of-the-art. Your full swing will benefit from computerized ballflight and swing analysis systems, while your putting mechanics will be refined with PuttLab, which uses ultrasound to measure and assess your stroke. Both indoor and outdoor practice facilities are available, as is a five-hole practice course. And if your new swing is worthy of new sticks, you can take advantage of one of the game’s most thorough club-fitting systems to ensure you find the perfect set to complement your swing dynamics.
    When it’s time to take your game to the course, you’ll have two courses from which to choose at the resort’s Indiana National Golf Club. The East Course is the tougher test of the two, and has hosted a variety of collegiate and Indiana amateur events. It’s not exceptionally long—playing to less than 7,000 yards from the tips—but with water in play on no less than 14 holes, you’ll need to control your golf ball to score.
    The West Course is fun and scenic. It’s no pushover, but wider fairways and larger greens make the course more forgiving than the East. The courses are a great value, as well, with green fees of $52 on weekdays and $60 on the weekends.
    You can opt for a deluxe room or suite in the main building and cottages are available, too. But we suggest you rent one of the four log cabins (which sleep 10) located in secluded, wooded areas on the property.

Dust off your little black book of golf contacts and leverage every angle to score a round at the private Canyata Golf Club (Canyata.com, 217-826-9500) in Marshall, Illinois. Owner Gerald Forsythe originally intended to build only three holes (a par-3, a par-4 and a par-5) for the use of friends and family. However, it soon became apparent to Forsythe and course architect Michael Benkusky that the land had the potential to yield a word-class design.
    Benkusky benefitted from a varied landscape that contains mature woods and wide, lush meadows bisected by streams and rocky ravines. This distinctive property led to a course that—amazingly—can be reminiscent of a true Scottish links at times and evocative of Pinehurst at others. 
    Wide fairways (they average more than 50 yards across) and 7,000-square-foot greens make Canyata somewhat forgiving for average players, but to score well, one must hit precise targets to set up ideal playing angles.
    You won’t have much time to ease into your round here. The ravines first come into play on the 583-yard, par-5 second hole. You’ll face a difficult tee shot with a forced carry (over a ravine) of 175 yards. A huge swale in the green will have you thinking of the famed ninth at C.B. MacDonald’s Yale Golf Club. And good luck choosing a club at the 221-yard par-3 third, which plays 40 yards downhill into the prevailing wind. 
    These holes—as well as No. 12, a par-3 which plays almost 250 yards across a dramatic, fescue-covered chasm—are in stark contrast to others (Nos. 7, 8, 11 and 16 are examples) which are laid out over wind-strewn plains. As at Cypress Point, the golfer is treated to a variety of natural settings with enhances the overall experience.
    If you happen to come across Mr. Forsythe, make sure to offer a friendly handshake. Membership comes only at Mr. Forsythe’s invitation.



Across the state in Galena, you’ll find the Eagle Ridge Resort and Spa (EagleRidgeResortOnline.com, 800-892-2269), set on more than 6,800 rolling, wooded acres. Variety is the name of the game at Eagle Ridge, from the accommodations to the activities and the golf itself.
    First, the accommodations: You have the choice of staying at the charming Inn near Lake Galena. The Inn is convenient to the Stonedrift Spa and a number of dining options. Villas and townhomes are also available, with one, two or three bedrooms. Finally, you can reserve one of the Eagle Ridge Distinctive Homes—three, four, five and six-plus bedroom homes are available.
    As for activities, you can spend your time on land (playing golf at one of the four courses on property), on the water (on the 228-acre Lake Geneva) or in the air (hot-air ballooning is a favorite activity).
    Now to the golf itself. The North Course is relatively open, with long vistas, rolling fairways and large greens. The South traverses a wooded valley, with a stream coming into play on 11 holes. The East is characterized by elevated tee shots to narrow fairways, while The General is Eagle Ridge’s strongest design. Roger Packard and Andy North were the architects of The General, which occupies the most commanding location on the property. Nos. 9, 14 and 18 are highlights. The ninth requires a tee shot carrying a gorgeous wildflower ravine with the distinctive silo at the clubhouse as an aiming point. The tee at 14 offers the most spectacular view on the course while options abound at the par-5 finisher, which has a split, two-tiered fairway and a dramatically undulating green. If you’re not going for the green in two, favor the right side of the fairway to set up the best angle into the green for your approach.

A few hours’ drive northwest finds you in Minnesota’s Brainerd Lakes region. Brainerd has long been a Midwestern golf mecca and Madden’s at Gull Lake (Maddens.com, 218-829-2811) has been a Brainerd centerpiece resort for almost 80 years. Occupying more than 1,000 drop-dead beautiful acres on Gull Lake’s Pine Beach Peninsula (including a full mile of sandy coastline), Madden’s is the quintessential, classic Midwestern resort—not surprisingly, it’s been named one of the Historic Hotels of America.
    It’s hard to believe, but the golf actually pre-dates this 80-year-old resort. The first golf course on the property was built in 1909—one of Minnesota’s first tracks. And Pine Beach East, built in 1926, was the state’s first 18-hole resort course. You can still play it today, along with two other 18-hole courses and a 9-holer. Like many of the game’s oldest courses, the East is a charmer with some eccentricities (including a 618-yard par-6 hole—now there’s something you don’t see every day). It’s a blast to play. The Pine Beach West course is of executive-course length (just 5,000 yards), but it boasts a couple of the best holes in this golf-rich region. The Classic at Madden’s is the resort’s crown jewel. Many believe it’s the finest public course in Minnesota. Giant red oaks with maple understory line the fairways, which sweep dramatically over knolls—The Classic is blessed with near-perfect golf terrain. 
    Off the course, you can enjoy the full range of watersports on the lake, in addition to biking and tennis. You’ll find manicured, USCA-sanctioned croquette lawns, lawn bowling and even a full-time naturalist for guided nature hikes. Trapshooting has been a Madden’s activity of choice for decades. Panache is Madden’s lakeside spa—enjoy a hot stone message before dining at one of the resort’s five restaurant options.



Across the border in tiny Erin, Wisconsin—about 35 miles northwest of Milwaukee—you’ll find Erin Hills Golf Course (ErinHills.com, 866-724-8822). Put simply, to play Erin Hills is one of the great experiences in American golf. Like Pacific Dunes, Sand Hills and Shinnecock, it’s rugged American linksland—a true rarity and an absolute joy to play. It’s the sort of place romantics go to commune with the soul of golf.
    But Erin Hills is far more than romance and ambience. The golf is outstanding, as well. How good is it? Just beginning its second full year of operation, it already has been awarded the 2011 U.S. Amateur. It was also awarded the 2008 U.S. Women’s Amateur Public Links—before the course had even opened! Do not be surprised if the U.S. Open pays a visit to Erin Hills in the next 10 years.
    Designed by Michael Hurdzan, Dana Fry and Ron Whitten, Erin Hills opened in 2006 to immediate acclaim. The native grasses, knolls and rugged bunkering puts one in mind of an Irish links. You’ll encounter charming quirks like back-to-back par-3s and blind (but fair) shots. No houses intrude on the experience; you won’t spot any power lines. It’s pure golf at its best.
    Pure—and a stern test. The course plays 7,824 from the tips and is sloped at 141. (Should the Open be contested over Erin Hills, the world’s best players could be facing an 8,200-yard beast!) Just be sure to play from the correct set of tees for your ability level and take—and listen to—one of the course’s fine caddies.
    The nearby Delafield Hotel is a casually elegant inn—a perfect complement to the experience. The only better option is one of the seven guestrooms in the Erin Hills clubhouse, designed in the manner of an Irish country inn. The pub on property also reflects the Irish influence—and is the perfect setting to relax, post round.

Devil’s Head Resort (DevilsHeadResort.com, 800-472-6670) is located in south central Wisconsin—convenient to Chicago, Milwaukee and Madison. Art Johnson designed the golf at Devil’s Head. (The original course at Devil’s Head—designed in 1970—was split in 2004 and combined with two additional nines—built in 1999 and 2004—to create the two courses now known as the Glacier Course and Prairie Glen. You would never suspect that the nines were designed decades apart—the routings are seamless.)
    Glacier is the shorter and tighter of the two courses, and features dramatic elevation changes, rock outcroppings and spectacular views. Prairie Glen is well bunkered and features an incredible diversity of holes: you’ll encounter everything from links-like holes to island greens. Like Glacier, Prairie Dunes has lots of elevation change, including a par-3 hole with a green beckoning from 120 feet below the tee. Both are tree-lined and blessed with jaw-dropping scenery. Keep your eyes open and your camera at the ready—wildlife encounters are commonplace on the golf courses. And after the round is complete, be sure to head over to the Devil’s Den for a libation—it’s a terrific 19th hole.
    A popular snowboarding and downhill and cross-country ski destination in the winter, Devil’s Head has superb mountain biking, road biking and hiking in warmer months. Lodge rooms and suites are available, as are condominiums which sleep up to eight guests. (Should you fall in love with Devil’s Head while staying in a condominium, you’ll be happy to learn that condos are available for purchase, as well.)
    Be sure to check out the variety of golf packages that are a real value for the hard-core golfer, combining lodging, dining and unlimited play on both courses.

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